Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.